2015-09-06-Chartres, FR-Chartres Cathedral
ThomasCarroll235's Gallery ThomasCarroll235's Gallery
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  1. ThomasCarroll235's Gallery
  2. 2015-09-06-Chartres, FR-Chartres Cathedral2015-09-06-Chartres, FR-Chartres Cathedral
Yesterday evening we met our friends Dave, Jean, Carey and Carroll, about forty other fellow travelers and our tour/cruise director, Guillaume at the Hotel Jardin du Marais where we received a comprehensive briefing on our itinerary for the next two weeks. Afterwards, we had an excellent dinner at Chez Janou Bistrot, a place that Dave and Jean were familiar with. This morning, we left Paris by bus at 8AM and arrived a couple of hours later in Chartres, about 60 miles southwest of Paris. Chartres is world famous for its magnificent Gothic cathedral which has the best preserved stained glass in all of France with exquisite, vivid colors, especially it's vibrant blue tones. In the afternoon we drove south to Amboise, an ancient historic town straddling the Loire River in the Centre-Val de Loire region of France with two castles, or chateaux, one of which commands the town's high ground over the river. After settling into our hotel on the outskirts of town, our group attended the Grand Circle Cruise Line's"Welcome Dinner" in the unique La Cave aux Foulees Restaurant Troglodyte (cave dweller) situated, appropriately enough, in a cave!

Chartres Cathedral-Jamb statues of Saints

Chartres Cathedral-Central tympanum of the Royal portal

Our knowledgeable and enthusiastic guide, Veronique, points to a feature on the cathedral's facade

Chartres Cathedral-West facade sculptures

Chartres Cathedral-Western facade: Virgin and child flanked by angels

Chartres Cathedral

Perhaps the most distinctive feature of Chartres Cathedral is the extent to which architectural structure has been adapted to meet the needs of stained glass. The use of a three-part elevation with external buttressing allowed for far larger windows than earlier designs, particularly at the clerestory level. Most cathedrals of the period had a mixture of windows containing plain or grisaille glass and windows containing dense stained glass panels, with the result that the brightness of the former tended to diminish the impact and legibility of the latter. At Chartres, nearly all of the 176 windows were filled with equally dense stained glass, creating a relatively dark but richly coloured interior in which the light filtering through the myriad narrative and symbolic windows was the main source of illumination.

Chartres Cathedral-Western facade rose window

The cathedral has three large rose windows. The western rose, made c.1215 and 12 m in diameter shows the Last Judgement – a traditional theme for west façades. A central oculus showing Christ as the Judge is surrounded by an inner ring of 12 paired roundels containing angels and the Elders of the Apocalypse and an outer ring of 12 roundels showing the dead emerging from their tombs and the angels blowing trumpets to summon them to judgement.

Chartres Cathedral

The cathedral's spiritual intensity is heightened by the fact that no direct light enters the building. All the light is filtered through stained glass, so that the whole experience of visiting the Chartres Cathedral seems out of this world.The interior of the cathedral is remarkable. The nave, wider than that of any other cathedral in France (52 feet, or 16 meters), is in the purest 13th-century ogival style. In its center is a maze, the only one still intact in France, with 320 yards (290 meters) of winding passages, which the faithful used to follow on their knees. The warm glow of the light inside the cathedral results from the incomparably beautiful stained-glass windows, which date mostly from the 14th century.

Chartres Cathedral

Chartres Cathedral-Altar and apse

Chartres Cathedral

Chartres Cathedral-Looking up at the clerestory

The elevation of the nave is three-storied, with arcade, triforium and clerestory levels. By eschewing the gallery level that featured in many early Gothic cathedrals (normally between arcade and triforium), the designers were able to make the richly glazed arcade and clerestory levels larger and almost equal in height, with just a narrow dark triforium in between. Although not the first example of this three-part elevation, Chartres was perhaps the first of the great churches to make a success of it and to use the same design consistently throughout. The result was a far greater area of window openings. These windows were entirely glazed with densely colored glass, which resulted in a relatively dark interior – but one which accentuated the richness of the glass and the colored light that filtered through them.

Chartres Cathedral-Detail of the north transept rose window

The north transept rose (10.5 m diameter, made c.1235), like much of the sculpture in the north porch beneath it, is dedicated to the Virgin.[30] The central oculus shows the Virgin and Child and is surrounded by 12 small petal-shaped windows, 4 with doves (the 'Four Gifts of the Spirit'), the rest with adoring angels carrying candlesticks. Beyond this is a ring of 12 diamond-shaped openings containing the Old Testament Kings of Judah, another ring of smaller lozenges containing the arms of France and Castille, and finally a ring of semicircles containing Old Testament Prophets holding scrolls. The presence of the arms of the French king (yellow fleurs-de-lis on a blue background) and of his mother, Blanche of Castile (yellow castles on a red background) are taken as a sign of royal patronage for this window. Beneath the rose itself are five tall lancet windows (7.5 m high) showing, in the centre, the Virgin as an infant held by her mother, St Anne – the same subject as the trumeau in the portal beneath it.

Chartres Cathedral-south transept rose window

The south transept rose (10.5 m diameter, made c.1225–30) is dedicated to Christ, who is shown in the central oculus, right hand raised in benediction, surrounded by adoring angels. Two outer rings of twelve circles each contain the 24 Elders of the Apocalypse, crowned and carrying phials and musical instruments.

Chartres Cathedral-Lancet windows below the south transept rose window

The central lancet beneath the rose shows the Virgin carrying the infant Christ. Either side of this are four lancets showing the four evangelists sitting on the shoulders of four Prophets – a rare literal illustration of the theological principle that the New Testament builds upon the Old Testament. This window was a donation of the Mauclerc family, the Counts of Dreux-Bretagne, who are depicted with their arms in the bases of the lancets

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